You are sitting in a small café in Istanbul. At the table next to you, two friends are talking. You have been studying Turkish for a while now. You understand most of the words. You follow the grammar. And yet, something feels slippery. Every few sentences, there are words you recognize but cannot quite place. “Şey… yani… bilmiyorum işte.” You know "şey" means “thing.” You know, “yani” means “I mean.” But here, they don’t mean anything in the way your textbooks taught you. Th

Inside Hagia Sophia in Istanbul, a Viking carved his name into marble more than a thousand years ago. This essay explores the story of Halvdan, the Varangian guards, and how a single human gesture survived inside a building named after Divine Wisdom. A quiet reflection on history, presence, and memory across Constantinople, Miklagard, and modern Istanbul.

If you are learning Turkish, you will eventually come across the name Evliya Çelebi . Usually in passing. A name in a textbook. A street sign. A footnote. He is often introduced as “a famous Ottoman traveler.” That description is correct, but it barely touches what made him extraordinary. Evliya Çelebi was not simply someone who moved through places. He moved through language itself . Through how people spoke, feared, exaggerated, joked, and believed. He listened to words whi

You don’t really meet a Sivas Kangal in a city. You meet it on a long road in Central Anatolia. The asphalt stretches forward without curves. The land is wide, quiet, and almost empty. Then you see it. A still figure at the edge of the steppe. Not moving. Not watching you. Just there. That stillness is not hesitation. It is confidence. The Sivas Kangal does not rush to prove itself. It doesn’t bark to announce presence. It stands. And in Anatolia, standing your ground has alw

You are standing in a museum in Istanbul. Inside a glass case, there is a small clay tablet. It is broken. Uneven. Easy to miss. It does not look important in the way we are trained to recognize importance. No gold. No monumentality. Just clay, hardened by time. And yet, pressed into that surface more than 3,200 years ago are the terms of the world’s first known written peace treaty. This is the Treaty of Kadesh . It was written in Anatolia, long before Turkish was spoken her